Suit Waistcoat

An integral part of a three-piece suit, the suit waistcoat is a sure bet for elegance. This piece is perfectly at home at grand ceremonies and in the city alike. It can be worn without the jacket for a less formal, more casual or workwear feel, and yet remain the height of chic. Let us take a closer look at this iconic garment, which goes back to ancient Persia, inspires the great Hollywood classics and dresses the finest charmers.

When should you wear a suit waistcoat?

A men's suit waistcoat can be worn anywhere except on a football pitch or in a gym. You can sport your handsome waistcoat at a ceremony, at the office, on the underground, in the middle of the street and even at the bar. Far from simply hiding your braces, this smart piece has its own codes and traditions. It comes in several styles and colours, designed specially for a range of occasions. While the tuxedo waistcoat is reserved for occasions such as a gala evening, the other suit waistcoats adapt easily to any setting. Formal, relaxed or urban, the waistcoat is the centrepiece of your outfit. With a little creativity, you can give its elegance a twist. It is all about getting the combinations right: shirt or henley, pleated trousers or jeans, jacket or blazer, with or without a tie. Several combinations are possible, but do not fall into the trap of false friends: waistcoat with shorts and long socks, and so on. So pay attention to a few rules of use in order to score full marks.

A few rules for wearing a suit waistcoat well

There is only a fine line between the ridiculous and the sublime, as the saying goes. The waistcoat, a piece that is supposed to be a guarantee of chic, can verge on the vulgar if you do not respect a few basic principles. When you wear a waistcoat, single or double-breasted, avoid fastening every button. Leave the last button undone. This detail gives you the comfort of greater freedom of movement but, above all, it is a sign of your refined taste and your advanced knowledge of the male dress code. This basic principle is inviolable: even the fearsome former street man Al Capone took care to respect it. Nor should you wear a belt with a large buckle. It creates an unsightly bulge under the waistcoat and spoils the look. And do not wear your waistcoat over a roll neck jumper, even a perfectly fitted one. Leave that awkward styling to the character of Goofy.

How do you choose a suit waistcoat?

Your choice of suit waistcoat should rest on several criteria: your body shape, your complexion, but above all the occasion and the season, which will dictate the right fabric. The waistcoat leaves you no choice: a made-to-measure fit is a must. Its panels should stop at the waistband and never extend beyond those of the jacket. The cut is also fitted to the curve of your sides, with 3 centimetres of ease evenly distributed on both sides. If you are struggling to choose the colour of your waistcoat, go for neutral grey. You can then play with the shades to personalise your outfit. Otherwise, choose a colour recipe specially suited to your complexion. For very fair skin, wear a grey or navy waistcoat over a brown, mauve, blue or bronze shirt set off with a burgundy tie. For medium skin tones, pair a navy waistcoat with a light shirt and a red tie. For darker complexions, opt for a black waistcoat over a light shirt with a blue tie. Note too that it is the event that dictates the dress code. If you are going to a dinner dance, you can bring out your satin-textured waistcoat and your patent shoes. If the event takes place during the day, avoid sequins and keep things understated. In periods of intense heat, a waistcoat in a light, breathable fabric will keep you far more comfortable. Linen is among the first choices, followed by fine cotton and Fresco wool.

How do you wear a suit waistcoat without the jacket?

When you wear your suit waistcoat without the jacket, avoid looking like a waiter or a barman. It is all a question of combinations. The black waistcoat, white shirt and black trousers cliche should therefore be banished: go for a grey waistcoat instead. If you are heading out for a relaxed weekend at the bar or the club, roll up your shirt sleeves, with or without a tie. Dark trousers can also be swapped for jeans for a far less formal look. In summer, a cotton henley will suit you beautifully, unlike a T-shirt, which kills the look. If you have to keep to formal dress, a tie or bow tie is essential. Do not roll up your sleeves either, and wear pleated trousers. Be immaculate from head to toe by choosing a belt in the same colour as your shoes, ideally black.

How do you choose a waistcoat style to match your made-to-measure suit?

A three-piece suit cut from a single cloth is not an article of faith when it comes to elegance. You can perfectly well pair a contrasting waistcoat with your made-to-measure suit while respecting the basic codes of their holy trinity. Choose a cheap suit waistcoat in classic colours such as white, black or grey. These neutral tones stand a strong chance of going with a wide palette of colours. You can even break up the severity of a black suit with a light grey waistcoat and tie. Tonal dressing is also an excellent idea, provided you know how to play with the different shades. As for the cut, you have the choice between the classic single-breasted waistcoat, the tuxedo waistcoat and the double-breasted waistcoat. Easier to match with your suit (double-breasted or not), the classic single-breasted style can also be worn on its own, especially if the back is exactly the same colour as your trousers. If your suit is a tuxedo, be bold with a low-cut ceremony waistcoat. This kind of piece can replace the traditional silk cummerbund and neatly hides your braces. As for the double-breasted waistcoat, it only works with a single-breasted jacket and suits slim frames best.